The Rapid Trip North

Traveling across Europe in lock-down: March 2020

Simon Thompson

Sometimes what starts out calmly and enjoyable finishes in a crazy insane rush. This is what happened when I took my mother on what was planned to be a quiet and leisurely road trip from her home in the east of England, down through eastern France, across into Spain and down to my brother’s home on the Costa del Sol.

Simon in Caceres, Spain

We had been watching the news, so we were aware of continued Covid-19 transmission in China and also now in Italy, but we felt like it wouldn’t really impact our trip. We were, however, prepared with gloves and hand sanitizer and used it when we needed to, but things hadn’t blown up in any way to what they resemble now.


We had allowed 3 weeks to drive down with time for birding, wine-tasting and a little exploration along the way. I had 2 target birds to find (Hazel Grouse and White-backed Woodpecker) and mother really wanted to see a Great Bustard – we had directions for all three, so we thought we had a really good chance of doing a clean-up! Driving down through France is always a delight as we stayed off the autoroute for much of the time; stopping at bakeries for French baguettes, good cheese and a bottle or two of red wine. Birding was typically wintry as we drove south and the weather matched with continuous cold rain at times. Winter in Europe has never been one of my favorite seasons.

We meandered through small villages and ancient towns; highlights on the way down were Common Cranes and White-tailed Eagles near Troyes; White-throated Dippers and Grey Wagtails in a beautiful old village east of Lyon; wine tasting in Gigondas with Cirl Buntings and Blackcaps in the surrounding fields and a fly-past of French planes trailing red, white and blue.


We drove across a low pass in the Spanish Pyrenees into Catalonia; beautiful forests and mountains with Red Kites, Common Buzzard and Mistle Thrush in the fields, before spending the night in the ancient city of Vic. It was somewhat sobering to see the main plaza emblazoned with the photos of the imprisoned leaders of the independence movement.

The weather improved a lot as we drove south along the Spanish coastline, enjoying company with English expat friends, sampling Spanish red wine and enjoying several good tapas meals along the way. El Hondo National Park near Alicante is always good for a few hours to catch up with Marbled Teal, Red-knobbed Coot and other Spanish specialties before visiting my brother near Estepona.

Main Plaza, Vic, Spain

As we enjoyed a family reunion, the international news kept getting stranger and stranger – with restaurants and hotels closing all around us, forcing us to make a decision to leave early and drive as fast as we could back towards the English Channel. Our first stop was actually planned, but not for as brief a stay as we had. The fortified town of Trujillo was spectacular but strangely quiet and we felt lucky to end up in a nice hotel tucked into the castle walls. We had stopped to see the Great Bustards on the plains of Extremadura the previous evening and pick up dinner supplies, as eating out was looking like a very bad idea, but it would have been nice to spend a lot longer in this beautiful town.

Trujillo, Extremadura, Spain

It was two more long days of driving to get to the ferry back to Dover. Our last night in Spain was without breakfast (and coffee!) and it was the same as we drove through Bordeaux and north through France. Shops and restaurants were closed and lunch was a sandwich from a French truck stop; so much for French cuisine! Thankfully we found a small hotel near Paris that was open and even more opportune was a grocery store which we hit as soon as it opened. We had heard there was a shortage of toilet paper back in the UK, so a 12-pack went into our cart, along with wine, cheese, groceries and food for the rest of the journey north. Looking back at our shopping experience, we really didn’t have much idea what we would find when we got to the UK and should have stocked up with a lot more!

This map shows our starting point in Southern Spain.

Anyway, we got to the ferry a couple of hours ahead of time, after our GPS took us through right through the center of Paris, and thankfully safely out the other side and onto the correct road to Calais. It was now beginning to feel a little more surreal with all cars heading north having GB license plates, very few passenger cars on the ferry, and the customs agents all wearing masks and social distancing enforced. As the ferry left the continent it was cause for celebration and our first cooked meal for 3 days – good ol’ English fish and chips washed down with some ale!

Once back in the UK, our arrival was strangely devoid of instruction. No one handed out information or even mentioned that we had just arrived in from Europe, but after a lot of research we decided to start our first 2 weeks of quarantine – which continued even longer with the English lock-down 2 weeks later.

Oh yes, during all of this mess, we never did get time to look for Hazel Grouse or White-backed Woodpecker – maybe next time.

Venture to Northern Minnesota

Owls & Winter Finches

Kevin Burke

February 2020

The weather from the Twin Cities to Sax-Zim Bog was mild, for Minnesota in the winter, and very pleasant.  It was an interesting year in the bog with the booming cone crop keeping some of the regular winter finches too far north for us to see.  There were no Redpolls, Pine Grosbeaks, and very few Evening Grosbeaks.  The bog however did provide some other birds that on more “normal” years are very challenging to observe.

Our group, photo by Kevin Burke

There were six participants this year on the trip and right away our personalities meshed extremely well.  I was thrilled to lead this group of folks around the frozen white North for the better part of a week. 

Our first stop was the Old Cedar Avenue Bridge area of the Minnesota River National Wildlife Refuge.  This area has a good mix of open land, marsh, and frozen river habitats. 

Trumpeter Swans by Martine Stolk

As we walked the trails and bridge area, we had a few good birds come into view.  TRUMPTER SWANS were a nice start.  BALD EAGLES patrolled the small areas of open water.  Our main target was AMERICAN TREE SPARROW and we were rewarded with great views of at least four individuals.

We arrived in SAX-ZIM BOG early afternoon and had a couple hours to check a few of the hot spots. 

Ruffed Grouse, by Kevin Burke

One of the first birds that we encountered was a RUFFED GROUSE feeding on the buds of a birch tree.  It was a boom year for these grouse, so we had several good encounters.  The next bird we encountered was a NORTHERN SHRIKE.  They tend to be easy to pick out sitting on top of trees and limbs in the open. 

Finally, we pulled onto Admiral Road in the bog.  A BOREAL OWL had been very reliable at the feeding station for over a week and we had it right away. 

Boreal Owl, by Kevin Burke

It was an incredible sighting given this secretive owl usually makes it roost in a new spot every day.  This is always one of the most sought-after species in the bog and we got it straight away! 

As we were enjoying the owl a large dark raptor flew over the road to the North.  A NORTHERN GOSHAWK gave us fleeting views.  If that was not enough a fleeting view of a WHITE-WINGED CROSSBILL was the icing on the cake. 

American Three-toed Woodpecker, by Kevin Burke

We wanted to nab the other specialty that was being seen in the bog, so we went to the Winterberry Bog and were rewarded with an exciting AMERICAN THREE-TOED WOODPECKER.  This is another bird that is notoriously hard to see on most years.  We hit a few more spots and headed to Duluth to check into our hotel, our home for the next few days. 

Day two was a full day in Sax Zim Bog. A cooperative NORTHERN HAWK OWL was the first bird of the morning. 

Northern Hawk Owl, by Kevin Burke

These diurnal owls are fun to watch.  They rarely flush from their perch at the top of trees allowing for great looks. 

A few NORTHERN SHRIKES were perched on trees as we slow drove the back roads of the bog.  A visit to Mary Lou’s Feeders came up with multiple HAIRY WOODPECKERS.  They are huge up North.  The size comparison between DOWNY and HAIRY WOODPECKERS seems a lot easier to distinguish up in Minnesota.  We made another visit to the Admiral Road feeders to check on our BOREAL OWL that was still there.  Several COMMON RAVENS were observed throughout the bog.

After lunch we headed back to the Winterberry Bog and got great looks at BROWN CREEPER, RED-BREASTED NUTHATCH, and the AMERICAN THREE-TOED WOODPECKER. 

Driving onward we got our first glimpse of a SNOWY OWL way off in a field, but we had decent scope views.  We spent the rest of the day searching the bog and several spots had the charismatic CANADA JAYS. 

Spruce Grouse, by Kevin Burke

Day three of our Northern Minnesota tour took us up the Lakeshore of Superior, into the Northern forests, and into Wisconsin.  We drove about an hour and a half before we saw a car on the side of the road and several birders out of the car.  We decided to turn around and see what they were looking at.  It was a male SPRUCE GROUSE, our target for the morning! 

We had great views of this bird gritting on the road.  We drove a little further North and found four SPRUCE GROUSE feeding on the Jack Pines.  One of the males even started displaying on the tree. 

PINE SISKINS were all around our stops, and we had a flyby RED CROSSBILL.  After a coffee break we went to Agate Bay in Two Harbors and found COMMON GOLDNEYE feeding in the water, HERRING GULLS flying around the pilings and several BALD EAGLES patrolling the air. 

Iceland Gull, by Marianne Feeney

We headed down the lakeshore and stopped off at Brighton Beach and Canal Park in Duluth.  On a quick restroom break we had a large flock of gulls fly over our heads.  Mostly HERRING GULLS, but a larger white one was in the mix.  A GLAUCOUS GULL flew over at one hundred feet giving good views. 

We still needed one more gull, so we went to the Superior Wisconsin Landfill.  No good birding trip is complete without a trip to the landfill!  Soon after arriving at the landfill a smaller all white gull flew over: an ICELAND GULL.  Our target for the area! We also had brief views of a GREAT BLACK-BACKED GULL among the hundreds of HERRING GULLS. 

The last stop of the day was at the Richard Bong Airport in Superior to try for the SNOWY OWL that had been reported. 

Snowy Owl, by Kevin Burke

After waiting it out for about an hour we finally found it on the adjacent fairgrounds perched on a light post.  An awesome encounter with this iconic owl. It was a great way to wrap up the day.

Day four was the day to find all the birds we had missed on the previous three.  We had a brief look at a BLACK-BILLED MAGPIE first thing in the morning.  The first scheduled stop was at Mary Lou’s Feeding Station.  We were rewarded with a half dozen or so EVENING GROSBEAKS. 

These large finches were surprisingly hard this year, but we managed to catch them with this visit.  We drove South after a visit to Mary Lou’s and encountered another NORTHERN HAWK OWL. 

Sharp-tailed Grouse, by Kevin Burke

On our way we encountered a very cooperative RUFFED GROUSE that allowed many good photos.  With our fill of the RUFFED GROUSE we quickly encountered a single SHARP-TAILED GROUSE at a reliable feeding station.  This was our second grouse species in five minutes!

Still on our mission to go for more birds we drove a few farm fields to try for SNOW BUNTINGS.  No luck on the Buntings, but we did come across a hunting NORTHERN GOSHAWK. 

Northern Goshawk, by Marianne Feeney

It was a great encounter watching the GOSHAWK swoop down on a flock of ROCK PIGEONS.  We had great views of the bird in flight.  It stuck around and everyone had a nice look. 

We pulled up at Winterberry Bog and a BARRED OWL was out in the open directly above the feeders.  It allowed for fantastic photos and views. 

Barred Owl, by Kevin Burke

Our main target at Winterberry Bog was the BLACK-BACKED WOODPECKER. We walked the loop in the bog and finally found it near the back drumming quietly.  This was our third try for this bird and we were all happy to get it.  A short walk on Admiral Road produced a stellar look at a single WHITE-WINGED CROSSBILL. 

This was by far our best look and it even perched for a few photos. 

On the way out of the Bog we spotted two NORTHERN GOSHAWKS on a nearby tree line.  They were perched and stayed for us to get scope views. 

Northern Goshawk, by Kevin Burke

They eventually flew right across the front of our van and we got some great photos of this elusive species.  This round up day was a success with adding seven new birds to the trip!

The final day was a travel day down to the Twin Cities.  We took a quick spin through SAX-ZIM BOG, but it was snowing, overcast, and chilly.  We decided to head down to the Twin Cities and have one final meal together.  We had many stories of great encounters. 

Each year in Northern Minnesota is different.  This year was the year of the NORTHERN GOSHAWK, BOREAL OWL, and AMERICAN THREE-TOED WOODPECKER! Our group got a combined total of forty-two life birds!  I am really looking forward to going back next year to see what the area has in store.  Please think about joining me on this northern adventure!

Kevin Burke

Space Coast Birding & Wildlife Festival

January 22 – 27, 2020

Every year we send a few of our guides to the Space Coast Birding Festival, in Titusville Florida. In it’s 23rd year, this is one of the largest birding festivals in the US with tour companies from around the world. Titusville is close to Cape Canaveral National Seashore, Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge and lots of other great birding spots where you can see Florida Scrub Jay, Snail Kite and Limpkin, just to name a few. It is very easy to get to from Orlando!

Emilie Travis, our Florida-based guide, at our booth
by Simon Thompson

This year Simon Thompson, Kevin Burke and Emilie Travis represented Ventures Birding Tours, leading field trips and hanging out at our booth in the Exhibit Center.

Simon led three trips to Orlando Wetlands Park and Kevin led one trip there as well. This fabulous birding destination is not actually in Orlando, but rather in the town of Christmas. One of their favorite birds from this spot was a Least Bittern. These secretive marsh birds are seldom seen, so it was treat to get a good look!

Least Bittern at Orlando Wetlands
by Simon Thompson

They also got some good looks at American Bitterns, which are also usually hard to see.

American Bittern foraging along the edge at Orlando Wetlands.
by Simon Thompson

Another highlight from Orlando Wetlands was a pair of resident Sandhill Cranes dancing for spectators right in the middle of the path!

Resident pair Sandhill Cranes performing a mating display
by Simon Thompson

Kevin enjoyed being one of the bird guides for Port Canavaral and Pelican Island boat tours. The Pelican Island boat tour was rainy, except for a small window near dusk when they got a beautiful double rainbow! Despite the rain, they got some great looks at Roseate Spoonbills, Magificent Frigatebird, Glossy Ibis and lots more!

Rainbow over Pelican Island, the very first National Wildlife Refuge!
by Kevin Burke

One of Emilie’s favorite days was co-leading a trip to Blue Spring State Park. Cold water pushed the manatees into the warmer spring waters that are a constant 72. In the 23 years of this festival the normal counts of manatee were about 40, but they were blessed with 524 counted that morning! Emile deemed the birding group the “Holy Sea Cows” and it was a blast!

An aggregation of manatees at Blue Springs
by Emilie Travis

Emilie’s trip then continued on a riverboat cruise along the St. Johns River, seeing record numbers of Purple Gallinules and Limpkin. They also scored a Barred Owl as well as both Black-crowned and Yellow-crowned Night Herons on the same tree!

Limpkin feeding along the St. Johns River
by Emilie Travis

Emilie also led sunrise and sunset kayak tours to Mullethead Isand, a protected Roseate Spoonbill Rookery. Seeing magenta pinks enhanced by the copper tones from the rising sun was surreal! Both mornings were crisp and windy so a little less comfortable to start but once in boats and watching sunrise they were all were good!

Emilie kayaking at Mullethead Rookery Island

Kayaking the sunset tour on Saturday was most spectacular because they got to see lots of dolphins and manatee swimming close to their boats along with some bioluminescent comb jellyfish!

Both Kevin and Emilie also led trips to TM Goodwin Wildlife Management Area. produces grand numbers of wetland species including hundreds of American White Pelicans. This year their numbers were less than a 100 but last year more water in the unit produced nearly 1000!

Everyone saw lots of Limpkins during the Festival. In the US this species is generally only found in Florida, but their range is quickly expanding. They feed on apple snails and a non-native apple snail is benefiting this species.

Limpkin at Orlando Wetlands
by Simon Thompson

After the Festival ended, Kevin and Simon did some birding at Lake Apopka and saw a couple of their favorite species of the trip: Ash-throated Flycatcher and Fulvous Whistling Duck.  Ash-throated Flycatchers are more common in the Southwest US, but winter in small numbers in the Southeast.

Fulvous Whistling Duck at Lake Apopka
by Simon Thompson

We look forward to returning to this great festival again next year. Maybe we will see you there!

Cheers to some great Florida Birding!

Venture to the Guatemalan Highlands

Nov 30-Dec 7, 2019

With Aaron Steed

Our quick, week-long Guatemalan getaway was focused on birding the foothills and highlands, from the slopes of the Volcano Atitlán to the beautiful city of Antigua, for an assortment of range-restricted species and regional endemics.

The excellent Los Andes Nature Reserve was our first destination and an early start to the day ensured that we would arrive with the entire day to spend here.

The Lodge at Los Andes

Some quick stops on the main road in produced our first views of White-throated Magpie Jay, Gray Hawk, Black Phoebe, and Grayish Saltator. After re-energizing with a cup of coffee grown on the reserve, we were ready to explore the mix of coffee, quinine, tea, and macadamia crops and forested slopes and ravines. A fun 40-min ride in the back of a pick-up truck took us to a nice patch of cloud forest higher up in the reserve.

Our group riding in the back of a pick-up truck to the cloud forest

The main target for the afternoon was the Azure-rumped Tanager. Soon after entering the forest we had numerous Townsend’s, Wilson’s, and Golden-crowned Warblers and Slate-throated Redstarts. The fantastic songs of Brown-backed Solitaires rang out from all around us while raucous flocks of Bushy-crested Jays moved through the forest. We enjoyed fine views of Green-throated Mountain-Gem, a hummingbird endemic to Northern Central America.

We at last saw a few Azure-rumped Tanagers, along with a spectacular male Blue-crowned Chlorophonia and the abundant Yellow-winged Tanager. On the walk back down, a short jaunt off-trail with our excellent local guides got us incredible views of a male Resplendent Quetzal, another target on the group’s most wanted list.

One of our ‘most-wanted’ birds : the Resplendent Quetzal

Around the lodge, the gardens and hummingbird feeders attracted a nice variety of birds to keep us busy for the afternoon – Rufous & Violet Sabrewings, and Blue-tailed & Ruby-throated Hummingbirds formed a constant stream of activity around the feeders, while Clay-colored Thrushes, Baltimore & Spot-breasted Orioles, Golden-fronted Woodpeckers, Black-headed Saltators, and Melodious Blackbirds were seen in the gardens.

The next morning we birded our way up through the coffee plantation, where some early morning sunshine and clear skies brought out the raptors.


A soaring Hook-billed Kite was a bit of a surprise and we also managed Black and Ornate Hawk-Eagles. A short scramble down a steep incline gave us stellar views of lekking Blue-throated Goldentails. It was soon time to be on our way to the reserve of Los Tarrales – but not until we’d enjoyed another delicious meal and fresh coffee!

Los Tarrales is only about an hour and a half away on the slopes of the same volcano as Los Andes, but being on a different side and at a lower elevation, we knew that it would have some different birds.

An easy afternoon stroll up the main track took us past verbena flowers abuzz with Cinnamon Hummingbirds and treetops full of Blue-gray Tanagers, Red-legged Honeycreepers, and Boat-billed Flycatchers. An inquisitive Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl gave us great views in the afternoon light and White-bellied Chachalacas gave their noisy calls around the grounds.

White-bellied Chachalacha

The next morning we further explored the forest via the Rinconada Trail, which climbs up in elevation to a few different viewpoints.

Hiking the Rinconada Trail

The forest was alive with birds – from the beautiful Long-tailed Manakin, and Collared Trogon, to the diminutive Tody Motmot and the boisterous Rufous-naped Wren. A soaring King Vulture was a nice addition, and Tennessee Warblers were everywhere! Close encounters with Lesson’s Motmot, White-winged Tanager and Ivory-billed Woodcreeper all added to the morning’s diverse experience.

After lunch, we left the Volcano Atitlan for the lake of the same name.

Lago Atitlan

A brief stop at the Mesoamerican Permaculture Institute (IMAP) turned up the only Slender Sheartail of the trip, a female perching in the reeds on the lakeshore. We found a nice raft of Lesser Scaup, Ring-necked Duck, and Redhead on the lake. A Sora called out from the reeds while Green Herons stalked among the edges. We arrived at our hotel in Santiago Atitlan with a bit of time to enjoy the gardens and take in the lake view before dinner.

Tropical Mockingbird at IMAP

The optional hike up Volcán Tolimán was planned for the next morning and a few of our group were just crazy enough to give it a shot – the allure of the Horned Guan was just too strong not to!

We met shortly after 4 AM for coffee and to grab our pack meals for the day, and we were off, on foot, straight out from our hotel. A path picked up in the middle of town soon led us steadily uphill into coffee and avocado plantations. Soon enough we were hearing the calls of Great Horned Owl, and we got good looks at a Whiskered Screech-Owl calling overhead. Mexican Whippoorwills and Fulvous Owls were all heard before first light, as were the high-pitched screams of Highland Guans.

Northern Guatemalan Pygmy Owl

A flock of about 45 Gray Silky Flycatchers moved from treetop to treetop, while Bar-winged Orioles and Blue-throated Motmots called around us. The locals had crops growing even this high up and we passed corn and red and black beans on our way to the primary forest farther up. The trail had now become an unrelenting, continuous climb uphill, and we could feel the air getting thinner as we climbed. We took our time and continued birding during our breaks, finding Hermit and Crescent-chested Warblers, Greater Pewee, Rufous-collared Robin, and Rose-throated Becard on the way. Just as we were reaching our limit, our local guide returned from a side trail to say he’d just heard a Horned Guan calling. We left the main trail and excitedly followed Freddy. The trail soon became non-existent and the footing more treacherous, but we soon were in position and all managed wonderful views of this absurd species. After obtaining a few photos and appreciating this ‘unicorn turkey’ to the fullest, we began to make our descent, now in excellent spirits.

Horned Guan

We had found the guans before 10 AM, and now had the rest of the day to bird our way back down the way we came. We found Mountain Trogons and Blue-and-white Mockingbirds. We got incredible looks at a rufous morph Northern (Guatemalan) Pygmy Owl being mobbed by a Rivoli’s Hummingbird and killer views of a pair of Rusty Sparrows near the end of our hike.

Rusty Sparrow

The other half of our group which skipped the hike enjoyed a more leisurely day with a full breakfast and later start. Even still, they managed to get wonderful looks at a Blue-throated Motmot, something that the rest of us ended up missing this trip!

Finca Chichavac’s pine oak woodlands was our stop the next morning, which began cool and clear (we certainly needed our jackets!). Steller’s Jays greeted us as we stepped from the van, along with Black-vented Orioles, Blue-and-white Mockingbirds, and Hutton’s Vireo. On the cattle farm we enjoyed great looks at Tufted FlycatcherRed-faced Warbler and the only Spotted Towhee of the trip. Pink-headed Warbler, endemic to Mexico and Guatemala, was one of our main target birds and we eventually got incredible views! We also added a lovely male Amethyst-throated Mountain-Gem and Pine Flycatcher.

Tufted Flycatcher

After a filling lunch and a delicious corn cheesecake (it’s way better than it sounds) at a restaurant built in the style of a Swiss chalet, we headed to Antigua with the afternoon free to shop and explore.

Our group having lunch

Our hotel, the Posada Don Rodrigo, encompasses three historic houses dating back well over 300 years (it is said to be one of the oldest buildings in the Americas), and provides a convenient location from which to explore the cobblestone streets and picturesque Spanish Colonial architecture of this small and colorful Guatemalan city.

Santa Catalina Arch in Antigua

The postcard view of the Santa Catalina Arch set amid the backdrop of the towering Volcán Agua was visible right outside the hotel entrance while Central Park and the La Merced Church were both less than a 5-minute walk away. The vibrant, bustling streets were quite the change from what we’d been experiencing on the trip so far, but it was nice to switch gears and take in the non-avian sights for a bit!

La Merced Church in Antigua

Our final birding stop of the trip was at Finca El Pilar, located just 10 minutes from our Antigua hotel. At the observation area, several Black-headed Siskins joined a female Rose-breasted Grosbeak in the top of a bare tree while a small flock of colorful Hooded Grosbeaks flew overhead.

Black-headed Siskin

A pair of Collared Forest-Falcons were too well hid to lay eyes on but we enjoyed hearing their hilarious calls. Acorn Woodpeckers and Townsend’s Warblers were everywhere! The overlook view of three volcanoes – Agua, Acatenango, and the smoking Fuego – was nothing short of spectacular!

Smoking Volcan Fuego and Volcan Acatenango

After lunch, we visited the nearby Museo Santiago de los Caballeros, which offered a fascinating insight into Guatemala’s colonial history. Soon enough though it was time to make our way back to Guatemala City, where we would have dinner and tally up our checklists for the final time. In just one short week our group encountered 221 species including all the big targets – Pink-headed Warbler, Azure-rumped Tanager, Horned Guan, and Resplendent Quetzal!

A special thanks goes out to Daniel Aldana and Operador Latino, as well as the other local guides Freddy, Chus, and Salvin, plus our amazing driver Luis, and last but not least our wonderful group of clients – for making this a fantastic and memorable trip.

Aaron Steed

Aaron with a strangler fig

Venture to Southeast Brazil

Regua Lodge and excursions, Rio do Janeiro, Brazil

November 22-30, 2019

To many people, Brazil evokes beaches, bronzed bodies and lively entertainment, while to others it’s a land of vast rainforests, unique birds and critically-endangered ecosystems. It’s a huge country and on this trip we were only going to see a small part of the state of Rio de Janeiro along Brazil’s east coast.

Regua Lodge

We were all picked up at the very convenient Hotel Linx at the Rio Airport by Regua’s driver, Alceni, for our 1.5 hour drive to Regua Lodge, set in the shadow of Serra de Orgao National Park’s craggy peaks. Originally a ranch, Regua is now a birding destination for birders and naturalists from all over the world.

Our first walk was on the property around the large wetland complex that had been recreated in the valley.

A haven for waterbirds, Cattle Egrets now nest, along with Black-crowned Night and Boat-billed Herons; Wattled Jacanas and Common and Purple Gallinules are abundant and Chestnut-capped Blackbirds nest in the reedbeds, along with Greater Ani, Great Kiskadee and Social Flycatcher. Highlights had to be the soaring Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle and the Common Pauraque sitting on 2 eggs on the side of the trail. The birding was excellent.

Despite the gray conditions, we spent the afternoon in the open fields outside Regua. With the deforestation and the wet fields, the uncommon Giant Snipe has now become far easier to see and has probably considerably expanded its range. Other birds of the open country included Burrowing Owl, Streamer-tailed Tyrant and the strange and entertaining Guira Cuckoo. A stop at the edge of the woods on the way home produced great views of a Tawny-browed Owl.

Our first excursion was north to search for the localized Three-toed Jacamar, which is restricted to a few locations in interior coastal Brazil. Stops along the way produced the beautiful and enigmatic Toco Toucan, as well as Crested Black-Tyrant and Ash-throated Crake. Despite their global rarity, it was not a difficult bird to find at all and I believe we saw at least 4 pairs. And because we were so close to the state of Minas Gerais we decided to cross the line to add an e-bird list and our Green-barred Woodpecker was the only sighting of the trip!

It was off to the beach the next day, but not to Copacabana or any other famous Brazilian beach spot. Our final destination was the Restinga habitat along the coast; home to the endemic Restinga Antwren.

Restinga Habitat

Along the way we stopped at various wetlands and coastal habitats seeing Gray-hooded and Kelp Gulls, Common, Royal and Sandwich Terns and a good selection of migrant shorebirds. The Restinga Habitat has been destroyed along a good part of the coast, but thankfully we managed to see the Antwren without too much difficulty.

We stayed on the grounds of Regua Lodge the next day and decided to hike the Green Trail to the waterfall. The trail is fairly steep, but we took it slowly finding a good selection of forest birds along the way.

Waterfall near Regua Lodge

Flycatchers are always well-represented and we found Yellow-olive, Sepia-capped, Whiskered and Ochre-bellied. Swallow-tailed (Blue) Manakins were calling all along the trail and we all got great views of the gorgeous Black-cheeked Gnateater.

It was quite hot high on Pico Caledonia above the lingerie capital of Brazil (Nova Friburgo) and we needed the 4 x 4 Toyota to climb the very steep cobbled road. Our target was of course the Gray-winged Cotinga, a critically rare species that lives within a 400m range and is probably below 1,000 individuals. Unfortunately we didn’t see any, but our supporting cast included Diademed Tanager, Black-and-gold Cotinga and Mouse-colored Tapaculo.

On the way back to Regua we stopped at the old road now called the Theodoro Trail. This is a somewhat reliable spot for the uncommon Brazilian Laniisoma (Shrike-like Cotinga) – which alas we only heard in the high canopy. Bare-throated Bellbirds were clanging away in the canopy and a Rufous-breasted Leaftosser showed itself nicely along the edge of the trail.

The Waldenoor Trail was another trail on the Regua property. Only about a 30 minute drive away from the lodge over somewhat bumpy roads, this trail snaked up through the forest through a few private houses and gardens, but it was still a great birding spot. It was a great place for forest birds, and some of the highlights including nesting Long-tailed Potoo (with a delightful fluffy chick), nesting Chestnut-crowned and Crested Becards, and an impressive large White-throated Woodcreeper.

A walk around the Regua wetlands in the afternoon produced a pair of delightful Rufous-sided Crakes, a couple of probably transient Snail Kites and a couple of Muscovy Ducks. We continued our search for Masked Duck, but once again they evaded us.

The following day was another excursion, but to middle elevations at Macae de Cima – just this side of Nova Friburgo. The weather again was a little foggy but hopefully this would not affect the birding. We made our usual stop in the farm fields outside of Regua where an Ash-throated Crake gave us great views.

Our group

Birding along the Macae de Cima road was very good and very easy with wonderful Green-crowned Plovercrests singing along the road where we also watched a Scale-throated Hermit building her nest. A Dusky-tailed Antbird showed very well, as did both White-browed Foliage-gleaner and Sharp-billed Treehunter; more somewhat-confusing furnarids!

A drive to the very peak found us deep in the fog again but on the downhill hike we did find a couple of great birds: Hooded Berryeater and Sharpbill, that offered adequate views considering the weather conditions!

by Simon Thompson

observation tower at Regua Lodge
Brazilian Tapir
Common Marmoset
Three-toed Sloth


Some of us drove and some took a plane, but we all ended up at the hotel in Iowa (“Eye-oh-way”), Louisiana at the correct time! Thank goodness for cell phones, so we could at least keep track of each other on our cross-country perambulations!

Our group, with leaders Simon Thompson (front) and Keith Watson (back left)
by Simon Thompson

Our “Beat the Crowds” rail trip that first afternoon was postponed due to the heavy rain earlier in the week, so we all joined a very pleasant, albeit foggy, trip along some quiet side roads in the rice country. One of our first birds was a Dickcissel, closely followed by great views of both Sedge and Marsh Wrens – all excellent birds to start our trip.

Sedge Wren
by Simon Thompson

Flocks of Greater White-fronted Geese flew over and we had our first (of several) Vermilion Flycatchers of the tour. A brief stop in a pine lot was amazing with a day-time roost of 20 or so Barn Owls – more seen in one day than many of us had seen in our lifetime!

Barn Owl roosting
by Simon Thompson

One of the attractions of the festival was the food, although vegetarian options can be challenging at times. After a classic Cajun sausage meal our first evening, we moved on to crawfish etouffee, catfish bites, shrimp and a veggie plate – definitely something here for all of us.

Our group having lunch
by Keith Watson

Our afternoon activity was walking (well maybe clambering) through a very tufty and overgrown field looking for sparrows. Sedge Wrens were the default little brown bird that we flushed, but eventually Casey spotted a very furtive sparrow which turned out to be a Henslow’s.

White-faced Ibis
by Simon Thompson

Waterbirds are a predominant feature of the area, with huge flocks of White-faced Ibis being abundant, along with White Ibis, and Roseate Spoonbill. Flocks of Snow and Greater White-fronted Geese were constant sights and sounds as they flew overhead and the most abundant duck was Northern Shoveler with smaller numbers of Gadwall, Blue-winged Teal, Mallard and Green-winged Teal.

Snow Geese
by Simon Thompson

Thankfully we had low ticket numbers for the combine rides, so we could head out birding before returning to the rice fields for our turn on the combine harvesters. One of our first stops was the wonderful water treatment plant in Crowley. Here we were able to walk around at our leisure and enjoy the vast numbers of Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks, Redhead and American Avocet.

American Avocet
by Keith Watson

A large flock of Tree Swallows was feeding low over the lake and it didn’t take us too long to find Cave, Barn, Northern Rough-wing and even Bank amongst the horde!

The combine rides and observing the rails as they escape from the harvest are the undoubted star attractions of the festival and while the rails are easier to see from the sidelines, how often can one ride a combine harvester?

A productive field
by Keith Watson

Covered in dust and chaff we all saw Sora, King, Virginia and Yellow Rails as they flushed from the fields, but the bumping of the combine made using binoculars and cameras almost impossible. However, as the combines cut the rice swaths into smaller and smaller sections, the rails became concentrated and soon flew out into the adjacent fields. This is when the photographers had a fighting chance of getting pictures.

Keith with a Virginia Rail about to be banded
by Keith Watson
Yellow Rail in hand for banding
by Tim Carstens
White-faced ibis
by Simon Thompson

Cameron Parish is probably the most bird-rich parish in Louisiana, so we spent the next 2 days exploring the marshes, cheniers (coastal woodlots), shore and fields of this coastal parish.

boardwalk at Cameron Prairie NWR
by Keith Watson

A flock of Sandhills soared out of the morning mist, revealing a single image of black and white flying alongside them – a Whooping Crane. Although it was a distant apparition, we all got to enjoy in-flight views of this rarity.

by Simon Thompson

Loggerhead Shrikes, American Kestrels and both Vermilion and Scissor-tailed Flycatchers were “wire-birds” along the roadsides and pairs of magnificent Crested Caracaras sat on nearby fences and trees, as multiple Northern Harriers quartered the fields.

Scissor-tailed Flycatcher
by Simon Thompson

A picnic in Peveto Woods; a Baton Rouge Audubon Sanctuary was a great place for late migrants, such as Yellow-billed Cuckoo, Red-eyed and Yellow-throated Vireos, Eastern Wood-Pewee, Blue Grosbeak and a handful of warblers: Tennessee, Bay-breasted, Northern Parula, Chestnut-sided and Magnolia.

Magnolia Warbler
by Simon Thompson

The adjacent beach held the common and regularly-occurring Black-bellied and Semipalmated Plovers, along with the more uncommon Piping and Snowy Plovers, while the mixed tern and gull flocks contained all of the expected species, such as Ring-billed and Laughing Gulls, Caspian, Royal and Forster’s Terns, as well as Gull-billed Tern and several Franklin’s Gulls hiding among the many Laughing.

Snowy Plover
by Simon Thompson
Beach birding
by Keith Watson

Highlights of the trips had to be the stake-out Say’s Phoebe in a sports field, a picnic lunch in a quiet cemetery, a pelagic Harrier (why?) and a Hermit Thrush that we “chased” up a road in the marshes.

It was then off to the closing dinner for the 2019 Yellow Rails and Rice Festival; an evening of heavy hors d’oeuvres and socializing- a very pleasant end to the week. It was then some morning birding before some of us drove and some of us took a plane back to our respective homes.

Here are a few more birds (and one reptile!) from the trip:

Black-necked Stilt
by Simon Thompson
Stilt Sandpiper
by Simon Thompson
Inca Dove
by Simon Thompson
Tri-colored Heron
by Simon Thompson
American Alligators
by Keith Watson

Venture to Ridge Junction

Dawn at Ridge Junction by Alan Lenk
Dawn at Ridge Junction
by Alan Lenk

Tuesday Oct 1, 2019

With Clifton Avery & Aaron Steed

The morning began before first light at the Folk Art Center in Asheville.  As our group drove up the Blue Ridge Parkway the conversation in the car held an exciting tone as we speculated what birds might be flying over the high passes of the Black Mountains this morning. 

We arrived at Ridge Junction just before sunrise.  Calls of Swainson’s, Gray-cheeked, Wood, and Hermit Thrush greeted us as we geared up for the day.  A spectacular sunrise proceeded and then soon after, the birds began streaming over the ridge. 

Cape May Warbler
by Alan Lenk

We found an oak tree alongside the parkway that was full of warblers including Black-and-White, Black-throated Blue, Tennessee and Cape May.  Barred Owls called from either side of the parkway.  We began to make our way up the state road towards Mount Mitchell.  A Philadelphia Vireo appeared and perched in some cherry saplings allowing our group to get nice looks and photos.  Many other warblers, mostly Tennessee and Bay-breasted passed over the road.

Common Yellowthroat
by Alan Lenk

As we began to make our way back towards our cars a rush of activity and calling was heard above our heads in the tall Spruce trees dotting the ridge. As we turned our heads to the sky we saw the reason for the sudden cacophony, an adult Peregrine Falcon perched atop a spruce.  It immediately soared over our heads and disappeared over the ridge.  The songbirds quieted back down and returned to busily foraging for food.

About midmorning we drove a few miles down the Parkway to Balsam Gap.  Many birds were still passing through, especially Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, Swainson’s Thrush, Bay-breasted Warblers, and Tennessee Warblers. Red Crossbills and Pine Siskins called as they passed overhead, occasionally landing nearby in the top of a Buckeye. 

Red Crossbill
by Alan Lenk

Around noon we spread out our picnic lunch in the shade.  As we were all eating, a pair of Red Crossbills landed on a snag above us and then proceeded to drop down to eye level and forage just 5 feet away from our picnic!  They hung around for about 5 minutes giving all of us ample time to observe them and take photos.  It was a spectacular way to end a great morning of fall birding in the Appalachians.